Sock Tidbits
7. 5. 2008This is for those who need a refresher on the things learned during my basic sock class. Things you may need to look at again for the second sock or the next pair. Once you have completed a few pair of socks, these techniques become like second nature. But until then, here are a few reminders.
To speed up the process of me actually finding the time to make these little videos, I’m knitting a very small sock for demonstration purposes.
The Cast On
This is the Twisted Long Tail (or Twisted German, or Twisted Continental) that I teach in sock class. I have also included a short video of the method of joining those cast on stitches to prevent a jog.
video demonstration - Twisted Long Tail cast on
video demonstration - Joining in Round
Heel Flap
video demonstration - Heel Flap
Keep an eye on those selvedge stitches. If you are getting knotty things along the sides instead of the big loops, you are holding your yarn on the wrong side when you slip the stitch. Remember, in front when you are beginning a purl row and in back when beginning a knit row. Just like when working knit or purl rows - yarn in back when knitting, yarn in front when purling. Even though we slip them purlwise, it has nothing to do with a purl stitch. Purlwise just means slipping to maintain the correct position of the stitch on the needle.
When the flap is the length called for in the pattern, count the number of rows you have worked — or keep track of them as you knit. You will need this information when you knit your second sock.
Heel Turn
On the first 2 rows, you will work X number of stitches past center before working the decrease. Your pattern will tell you how many past center. The remainder of the rows are worked one stitch before the gap before the decrease.
And don’t forget that lone stitch after each decrease. Otherwise, you will not come out even on the ends and will have to rip back.
video demonstration - Heel Turn
PU and Rejoining
The most important thing about picking up the stitches along the heel flap is to make sure you twist them. Also, make sure not to miss the last pick up next to the instep stitches. The last pick up should be the stitch connected to the ladder between the instep and heel flap.
In this video I mention using M1’s (make ones) on either side of the instep stitches to prevent holes from forming at these points. Unless you knit on the loose side, you probably won’t get a hole on the first side. I don’t. But the second side is a different story. Almost everyone will benefit from tightening up that area. That is why I knit the ladder with the first picked up stitch, twisting them. This works better for me than a M1 and I don’t have to remember to decrease it away on the next row.
Kitchener Stitching the Toe
video demonstration - Sock Toe
It really doesn’t matter if you pull the yarn through after each pass through a stitch or after you have completed both stitches. I do think you will find it easier and faster to work both stitches as shown before pulling the yarn through.
Don’t make this hard, it isn’t. Just remember the little mantra - front, knit/off, purl/on - back, purl/off, knit/on.
And yes, that was my cat that made her cameo appearance in that video.
One More Suggestion
Count the rows after completing the gusset (or keep track of them as you knit) and before you begin the toe decreases. This insures that both socks will be the same size.
That’s all —
Adding a New Yarn
6. 4. 2008So it’s time to add a new yarn. What to do? Again, no one answer, no one best method. Following are the methods I prefer. Which I use depends on the circumstance - type of yarn, stitch pattern, project, or just whim of the moment. They all work just fine.
Note: The following videos show the new yarn as a second color for visual effect only. The procedures would be the same for a new yarn of the same color as the old yarn.
DO NOTHING
You actually don’t have to do anything, just drop the old yarn and begin with the new yarn. You can use this at the end of a row or within the knitting (if the stitch pattern will allow tails to be woven in discretely).
video demonstration - adding new yarn (do nothing)
I wouldn’t want to use this method with slippery yarn or loose, open stitch patterns. There is always the danger that the tail could slip through (and that’s what I refer to as a 4 letter event.) Although if you leave a long enough tail, the yarn has some cling and the stitch pattern is nothing complicated, you should be fine. Just check it and snug it up if it has become loopy as you knit the next few rows. You can adjust any loose stitches around the yarn change when you work in the tails.
Most people aren’t real comfortable with this method and I fully understand. Following are some methods I feel you’ll find more to your liking.
KNITTING LAST STITCH OF ROW WITH BOTH YARNS
This is simply securing the new yarn by holding it with the old yarn as you work the last stitch of the row.
video demonstration - knitting last stitch of row with both yarns
Can you use this within the knitting instead of the end of the row? Well, I don’t but you could. There are just better ways to add a new yarn within the knitting.
JOINING WITH A SLIDE
This comes real close to a knot, but it isn’t. I don’t recommend knotting yarns together but this slide works quite well and can easily be undone - or not. It’s up to you.
video demonstration - joining with a slide
As you can see, both yarns need to be cut ends. In other words, you can’t add a new yarn to a yarn that will stay attached for use later.
TAIL TO THE FRONT
(my favorite method to add yarn within the knitting)
This is the technique I use to add intarsia yarns. Naturally it can be used to add any yarn, it doesn’t have to be a color change.
Tail between the needles with cut end to the public side of the knitting.
Interlock yarns.
Resume knitting with new yarn.
To finish the tail, pull it through to the back and weave in. TaDa!
video demonstration - tail to the front
Tails
1. 30. 2008Guilty - I haven’t been doing a very good job of posting to classroom notes. I’d like to tell you I’d get better, but that probably won’t happen either. If given the choice of playing MiMi to Mason or getting on the computer, well….. guess you know what I choose. He has pretty much taken precedence over everything in my life and I love t!
I’ve been wanting to write about weaving in tails for months. If I just don’t do it, it isn’t going to get done — so here goes, the “Evil Tail Saga”.
Unfortunately, everything you knit will have at least two. The ultimate scenario is a one-skein scarf with fringe. Then you just slip the tail in with the ends of the fringe before you loop it through itself. Walla! No tails to weave in. Almost seems like cheating, doesn’t it? But things are rarely that simple and like with most other things knitterly, there is no one method to cover all circumstances.
I’d first like to mention weaving in the tails as you knit. This is done in the same manner as carrying floats across long spans in fair isle. I personally don’t like this method but if you do, please weave them in as you go. I’m not the knitting police. If you’re happy, I’m happy.
I’m also not going to mention knitting with both yarns held together for 3-5 stitches to secure the tail — you wouldn’t do that would you? Have those big ugly stitches in your knitting. No, I didn’t think so.
I’m going to presume that everyone knows that tails along the edge of a seam can be woven along the seam. This doesn’t mean that all tails “have” to occur at the end of the row or that those that are have to be woven through the seam. Sometimes it just isn’t possible or practical. For instance, if there are lots of tails along a seam, the seam can get too bulky with all of the tails overlapping each other. In this case, I’d rather run some of them in toward the garment. I really don’t like bulky seams!
Another peccadillo of mine is running tails along an exposed edge - like the top of socks or the edge of a scarf. That little cut end sticking out in the air is just a bit too obvious for my taste. Run tails that fall along an exposed edge in toward the knitting so that the little cut end has at least some privacy.
Tails on GARTER STITCH
The stitch pattern will often dictate which method you should use to weave in the tails. First let’s talk about garter stitch. The easiest method is to simply run the tail back and forth through the purl bumps that run across the row.
video demonstration - tails on garter stitch
A better method for garter stitch is duplicate stitch.
video demonstration - duplicate stitch
Duplicate stitch works well on most stitch patterns (except ribbing, see below) and with most yarns including novelty yarns. So if you are ever in doubt, you can hardly go wrong with duplicate stitch.
Tails within RIBBING
Ribbings main characteristic is it’s ability to stretch widthwise and recover. Having a tail ran horizontally across the width would disturb this elasticity. I prefer to run the tail vertically along a line of knit stitches.
video demonstration - tails within ribbing
And then my favorite –
Tails on STOCKINETTE STITCH
For stockinette stitch, I prefer to use a diagonal split stitch method to secure the tails. It helps to have a tapestry needle that is not too blunt. Not sharp as in pin sharp but sharper than a big blunt tip.
video demonstration - tails on stockinette stitch
The advantages to this method:
I have literally woven in 1000’s and 1000’s of tails using this method. I have NEVER had a tail come undone and NEVER had the cut end find its way to the front side of the knitting.
The only thing regrettable about this method is that it doesn’t work as well on knit/purl stitch patterns. Not to say you can’t do it - and I have quite often, it just doesn’t work as well when you don’t have those lovely purl bumps stacked there on the diagonal.
I hope to be back soon with a few words on how I begin new yarns.
Knitter’s Bookshelf
9. 27. 2007We are often asked which knitting reference books a knitter needs. I personally think you need more than one, but certainly not every one. The market is flooded with instructional knitting books, and here are a few that I think everyone needs.
Principles of Knitting
I’m sure many of you have heard me say that I consider The Principles of Knitting by June Hemmons Hiatt to be the number one reference book ever. It isn’t even fair to compare it to any of the other reference books because it is in a league all by itself. It may even be a bit overwhelming for a beginner because it is a large book covering a great deal of technical information in great detail. But for every knitter who intends to go beyond the scarf or felted purse, you need this book.
The sad news is that it has been out of print for a number of years. I just read that it is in the top 10 most sought-after out-of-print books, which doesn’t surprise me. For years we have been hearing that she was rewriting it and the new version would be out eventually. Well, now for the good news. She has actually signed a contract with Simon & Schuster for an entirely revised edition to be published in the fall of 2009. It will be well worth the wait.
Note from Keely - you bet we’ll have this book. It’s still a bit early, but we’ll have a waiting list and probably a countdown going . . . and maybe a watch-party too!
Vogue Knitting
But what about something available now? For a good basic how-to book, Vogue Knitting would be a good addition to any knitter’s bookshelf. You might think my collection of knitting books would be huge, but it really isn’t. I can’t bring every book home with me — and some aren’t worth bringing home, but Vogue is on my shelf. Believe it or not, I actually had to knit shoulder pads for a sweater once. Low and behold, three options for shoulder pads were right there in my Vogue Knitting. You just never know.
Knitter’s Companion
Another good basic is the Knitter’s Companion. This one is more for your knitting bag than your book shelf. Its size and sturdy pages make it very portable. Can’t remember the purl equivalent for SSK? There it is at your fingertips in your Knitter’s Companion. It recently was updated and expanded with new information, so if your currrent copy is getting worn, you might consider getting the new version.
Big Book of Knitting
Another book that made its way home with me is the Big Book of Knitting by Katharina Buss. It has all of the basic how-to information, and it also covers many things you don’t normally see in reference books - such as, shaker knitting, entrelac, good info on crocheted edges, a very informative section on necklines and collars plus much more.
The Knitter’s Book of Finishing Techniques
If you don’t have The Knitter’s Book of Finishing Techniques by Nancie Wiseman, you need it - that is, unless you already know everything you’d ever need to know about the best finishing techniques. Lots of useful information in this great little book. For crocheters, also check out her Essential Book of Crochet Techniques. Nancie knows her stuff.
If you are looking for a fun read or a book of patterns, that is not the focus of these books. If you are new to knitting and think these books too comprehensive for your needs, you might be surprised. You don’t have to understand or utilize all of the procedures at once. I believe you will find it helpful to have the information at your disposal answers for questions as they arise and to be able to review the different procedures at your leisure.
If I haven’t mentioned your favorite reference book, it doesn’t mean that I think it is worthless - although I do think some of them are pretty useless. One thing I have found to be true is that if the author learned to knit, let’s say last year, I’m pretty sure I don’t need their book. They may have the basics covered, but beyond that I have found they are usually in over their head. Sometimes I wonder if they’ve even tried some of these techniques they talk about so knowingly. But I guess they have to fill those pages with something!
Gauge Swatches
9. 10. 2007
With a new Sweater Girls class beginning soon, I felt that gauge would be a timely topic for the Online Classroom. Our Sweater Girls project is the EZ surprise jacket. A gauge swatch is a must and will be first on the agenda.
I’m going to presume that we all understand that gauge is the number of stitches/rows that you are getting to the inch and that if your gauge isn’t the same as the pattern you are working from, your project will end up a different size than listed in the pattern. We can’t all knit with the same size needle to the get same gauge because we don’t all knit with the same tension.
The wise thing to do is to knit a gauge swatch, changing needles as necessary to obtain the needed gauge. First try the needle size called for in the pattern. If you know that you knit loosely, you might assume that you would go down a needle size to begin your swatch. This can’t always be assumed since we don’t know if the designer’s tension is loose or tight and whether or not she has allowed for that. Then again, if you have knitted from this designer’s patterns before, maybe you can make that assumption - I’ll leave that up to you.
The Big Myth - if the gauge is 20 sts by 24 rows, you cast on 20 stitches, knit for 24 rows and see if the square measures 4″x4″. This is a guaranteed way to get the wrong gauge. Edge stitches are distorted and should not be a factor in determining gauge. So how does one go about measuring a gauge swatch? You need your swatch to measure larger than 4″ so you count how many stitches are in a 4″ area.
How many stitches do you cast on for the swatch? Let’s say the stitch gauge recommendation is 20 sts = 4”. I prefer to measure at least 2-3 stitches in from each edge which means that you would actually need 24-26 stitches in this instance to measure an accurate 4”.
Also realize that if you measure over 3”, or over 5”, or whatever, it’s fine. No one is going to rap your knuckles! Measuring over a larger area will give you a more accurate gauge.
So even though gauge is given over 4”, divide by 4 to determine the 1” gauge (you need to know that anyway) and measure your gauge over as many stitches as you want. It just makes more sense to me to think of your gauge over 1” than 4”. So, why is gauge given over 4” — don’t even get me started on that! When I started knitting, eons ago, it was always given over 1”. They changed it to 4” and I haven’t got over it yet. But that is a tirade subject for another time.
A few other facts about gauge -
The most important thing to remember about your gauge swatch –
even the most perfect swatch can give you a false sense of security. I’ve seen it happen all too often in class. I have my students diligently knit me a gauge swatch and yet the gauge between their swatch and their actual project be different - sometimes slightly, sometimes miles apart. This is especially prevalent with newer knitters as their tension may not have developed into a comfortable and natural habit. This also happens to not-so-new knitters. Perhaps you are using a fiber or weight of yarn that is new to you, or you have been knitting a lot with large needles and this project takes you back to a smaller needle, or you tend to knit differently when knitting on a small number of stitches, or maybe you’re just trying too hard to knit the perfect swatch. Who knows? It happens. Then when you get into the project and your natural knitting rhythm kicks in, your tension may be different than it was on the swatch.
Then is knitting a gauge swatch a waste of time? Nope, afraid not. It is still the wise thing to do. The swatch is still the best indicator of needle size you should plan on using. You just need to remember that a gauge swatch does NOT mean that you can now forget about that nasty gauge thing and just knit away without giving it another thought.
The actual project is your ultimate gauge swatch. Keep an eye on the gauge and/or the size of the knitted piece as you knit. If you are aiming for a 40” finished sweater size and the back measures 18” - you obviously have a problem and the first thing to look for is gauge discrepancy.
Reward yourself with a garment that fits. Knit smart and knit to gauge!
Casting On Loosely
8. 17. 2007Have you ever heard this piece of advice - cast on with a larger needle (or cast on over 2 needles) to get a looser cast on?. I’ve heard this comment a lot in the shop lately so I thought this would be a good subject for my first Online Class. As you’ve probably guessed, I have a problem with the validity of this advice or I wouldn’t be writing about it.
Whether or not this statement is true depends on which cast on method you are using. For the long tail cast on, this does NOT give you a looser cast on edge. The yarn that goes over the needle to create stitches is totally independent of the thumb yarn; it is this thumb yarn that creates the edge of your knitting. The needle size has nothing to do with the thumb yarn along the bottom edge.
In this picture the thumb yarn is the red yarn (click on the picture to enlarge). As you can see, it creates a base that is the same width on both the larger and the smaller needle. When I unraveled these cast on stitches I actually measured the red yarn that went into the cast on — they were exactly the same length. This is because the stitches on both needles were the same distance apart.
So, what do you do to get a looser long tail cast on? You have several options that depend on the reason for a looser cast on. If you simply have a tendency to cast on too tightly, then you just need to be gentler with the thumb yarn. The tighter you pull the thumb yarn, the closer it pulls the stitches together and the more it restricts the edge. Relax! The stitches don’t have to be crammed together.
For projects that need a bit more elasticity than normal, use the twisted version of the long tail cast on. This is the cast on that I teach for socks and I suggest for anything that has to be pulled on (such as socks, hats, mittens, gloves). This cast on creates an extra twist around the base of each stitch, therefore placing more yarn along the edge. Instruction for this cast on is shown in our Basic Socks pattern book.
There are times you may need a very expandable cast on edge. For example, pattern stitches that create shaped edges such as scallops; or perhaps knitting that is worked on larger needles than normally used for the weight of your yarn to create an open, lacy knitted fabric. This may actually be lace that will need to be blocked out or just an airy, loosely knit scarf. There is a wonderful version of the long tail cast on that allows you to place as much yarn as you need along the edge without enlarging the size of the stitches on the needle. You begin this cast on with a slip knot just as you would for a normal long tail cast on, although you will need to allow additional yarn for the tail.
How much this edge expands will depend on the size of the small needle. If I had used a size 3 for the small needle instead of the size 1, the edge would have been much more expandable.
If you want something easy and quick and that works relatively well, another option is simply space your stitches apart when casting on. You can control this by how tightly or loosely you pull the thumb yarn. Only tighten the thumb yarn enough to get the correct space between the stitches. So how far should the stitches sit from each other? That depends on your finished gauge. If your project will be blocked out to 3 stitches to the inch, you should only have 3 cast on stitches to the inch. This refers to the base of the stitches, not how far apart you can pull the stitches on top of the needle. Remember that it is the base or edge of the knitting that we are trying to loosen up.
Another option would be to use a provisional (temporary) cast on. You then later place the stitches back on the needle so that they can be bound off. This is particularly useful when you need both edges to look the same and be the same width. . . which brings me to binding off loosely. Binding off with a larger needle (the basic pull over bind off) DOES give you a looser bind off. The last row of stitches on the needle fall across the top of the knitting creating the finished edge.
School is Starting!
8. 16. 2007
Welcome to our new Online Classroom. This venue will allow us to share much of the knitting wisdom and knowledge that was previously available only in our classes.
SWAK’s educational program is led by Sherry, who is accomplished in many fields of needlework, including knitting, quilting and needlepoint. She has taught various forms of needlework for over four decades, was the co-owner of a successful needlework store in the late 70’s through early 80’s, and is currently co-owner of Sealed With a Kiss. Sherry is recognized as the leading expert in the intarsia knitting technique, and is highly accomplished in all areas of knitting. She will be writing periodically with tips, neat techniques, and lots of other information to help expand your knitting skills and perfect your technique.
Check in frequently, and we look forward to seeing you in class!
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