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Fair Isle

02 Aug 2025

Many of our posts this season have focused on colorwork patterns and techniques, particularly highlighting mosaic slip stitches and intarsia. It's only fitting to include Fair Isle in this discussion, completing our exploration of the trio of colorwork methods.

Understanding Fair Isle Technique

Fair Isle is a technique in which stitches are worked in alternating colors, with the unused color carried, or stranded, across the back of the piece. These strands are referred to as "floats." Typically, Fair Isle patterns utilize only two colors per row.

While the term Fair Isle specifically denotes the distinctive patterns originating from the Shetland Islands, it is often used more broadly to describe any form of stranded knitting. Although these intricate designs may seem intimidating, they are relatively easy to create.

Many knitters prefer the two-handed method of Fair Isle knitting, which I find to be more efficient, particularly when catching long floats. However, if this approach doesn't suit you, picking up each color individually while dropping the one not in use could be a better option. Ultimately, choose the method that feels most comfortable for you.

Tips for Navigating Fair Isle Patterns

Patterns that feature longer stretches of a single color may seem simpler, yet they can present their own complexities. When the unused yarn spans across these larger color blocks, it creates longer floats that are more prone to snagging, especially on sleeves. While catching these floats is essential, this topic warrants a more detailed tutorial.

A common challenge in Fair Isle knitting is stitch puckering. If you pull the next color too tightly into position, the float won't have enough yarn to keep the spanning stitches flat. I suggest using your thumb to keep the spanned stitches separated until you've completed the first few stitches of the next color. This technique works wonders!

While a small amount of puckering is normal in stranded knitting, it will beautifully relax when steam-blocked. Therefore, using natural fibers is crucial for the best results.

A Brief Discussion on Blocking

This serves as a perfect opportunity to transition into a short discussion about blocking. I've noticed a growing trend among knitters who choose wet-blocking for nearly all their projects. The reason behind this trend is unclear—perhaps influencers are promoting wet-blocking as the go-to method. Naturally, I have a few thoughts on the matter.

Ask yourself the following:

Is the fiber synthetic?
Is it dirty?
Does the piece need significant stretching to achieve its size?

If your answer is no to all these questions, STOP WET BLOCKING! These are the only three scenarios I can think of where wet-blocking is truly justified.

Natural fibers are the best choice for a variety of stitch patterns. Techniques such as lace, Fair Isle, and numerous other patterns necessitate steam blocking to set the fabric properly. Conversely, synthetic fibers are unsuitable for these designs, as steam can cause the fabric to melt. With synthetic materials, wet-blocking is typically the only viable method.

If the piece is dirty, it simply requires washing—this isn't wet-blocking; it’s referred to as laundering. After laundering, it will still need steam-blocking. You don't need to block it after every wash, just during the initial one.

For items that require extensive stretching, such as DanDoh’s plant-fiber creations, fully submerging in water and stretching with wires, followed by steam blocking, is essential.

Steam is what sets the piece, so be careful not to over-stretch. Once you've set it with steam, it won't revert.

Be sure to check out our tutorial on blocking!

Fair Isle Project Ideas

Ready to tackle this fascinating technique? Here are some of our top picks for Fair Isle projects: